Day 7 / Saturday, July 14
Our group on the steps of Cedar Hill, Frederick Douglass's home throughout the final years of his life.
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We depart digs in Alexandria, bound for D.C. to the final home of Frederick Douglass, thus bringing our journey full circle. Although our journey together ends today, the journey will continue in each of us. D.C. is perhaps the most volatile city in terms of its racial identity and high degree of emotions among its inhabitants. The D. C. of the 19th century is rife with pro-slavery and anti-slavery sentiments. D.C. is also a city of policy making and of monument building. Douglass’ home is situated atop unassuming houses along an unassuming street. The view from his home named Cedar Hill is anything but unassuming, a testament to the dedication of a formidable man.
Our knowledgeable interpreter,
Ke'mal McClarin.
We are first treated to a short film documenting the life of Frederick Douglass entitled Fighter for Freedom. We are then guided through a tour of Douglass’ home by the knowledgeable and courteous Mr. Kemal McClarin of the National Park Service. His vast reservoir of information on details of Cedar Hill, Douglass himself, and anecdotes about family members is impressive as well as illuminating. Mr. McClarin admitted to devoting at least half an hour a day to studying the contents of the house. Douglass’ home is most notable for the symbolism in nearly every aspect of the architecture and décor. There were the multiple symbols of the stars for the doorbells on either side of the front door. Douglass’ tenure in Haiti is expressed through the tropical border of the sitting rooms. The ball and chain is a central motif and the Star of David appears also. The house itself is a symbol of transition and grand-fatherhood for Douglass.
Douglass's study — a snapshot of the commitments that drove his life and
the room in which he penned his final autobiography, The Life and Times
of Frederick Douglass.
Douglass’ love of symbolism is not limited to symbols of his own time, his fondness for classicism pervades into domestic life. Mr. McClarin explained the symbolism behind the statue of Hermes in Douglass’ formal sitting room. The messenger of the gods is associated with thievery, commerce, and eloquence. Mr. Douglass identified with each of those attributes throughout the phases of his life. Douglass’ favorite cane is stylized like a Roman column of conquest, the cane detailing Douglass’ life through figures in an ivory spiral along the smooth wood. Douglass’ appreciation for classicism is indicative of the time and a reminder of his incredible feat of educating himself.
The values and mannerisms of the Victorian age also found their way into the Douglass home. Typical of the era, the home has an East/West orientation, masculine/feminine division of space. Mr. Douglass met his guests in the East and Mrs. Douglass received her company in the West, the domestic side of the home. Upstairs, the same Victorian values dominated the bedrooms. The seashells throughout the home were also typical of Victorian décor. The exercise equipment used by Mr. Douglass was perfectly suited to the Victorian sense of health and fitness.
We noted the quintessential irony of one of Douglass’ last posts as Recorder of Deeds, a former piece of property ultimately controlling property. Particularly poignant was the inclusion of dried dandelions framed on the wall of Douglass’ masculine sitting room. They suggest the tender and sweet side of the man, the husband, and father.
We started our journey at the crossroads of a desolate intersection and ended up in a beautiful mansion atop a hill in the capital of the United States. What a tremendous journey indeed.
As we leave Douglass’ home, I notice the sundial along the stairway. At the bottom of the sundial is etched a short but powerful phrase: [The sundial] “marks the sunny hours – What can you say of yours”
Adam introduces Dr. Edward Smith of American University, who spoke with us about Douglass's impact upon Abraham Lincoln.
Ed Smith is our guest lecturer from the American University. He has served as a consultant to the National Parks Service and the Smithsonian. He begins by calling the founders courageous cowards. After effectively gaining our attention he talks about the relationship between Douglass and Lincoln and by extension, the relationship between North and South during the Civil War years. There is no more powerful example of individuals steering the course of history than during the Civil War with the exception of the original rebels of the revolution. Mr. Smith explains how the courageous cowards left the contradictions of the Declaration of Independence and the peculiar institution of slavery for the next generation. We will not forget how Lincoln was a butterfly, how Douglass’ epiphany in church brought them together, and how different the reconstruction might have been had Lincoln not been assassinated 5 days after Appamatox.
Discussing the complicated history and conflicting messages of the Freedmen's Memorial.
Our journey continues on to one last testament in this story of American slavery, the Emancipation Memorial, a monument to Lincoln’s memory. Once again we are reminded of how the intended symbolism of one century can be misunderstood by the generations of a subsequent century. It was interesting to note the inclusion of the likeness of George Washington on the pedestal in the memorial, the president we have learned was so central to our journey of discovery about slavery and freedom along the Chesapeake.
Our final lunch — soul food at Levi's Port Cafe on Capitol Hill.
We conclude our journey with a grand feast at Levi’s Port Café.
—SAMANTHA BLAU AND SHELLY WESTERGARD
Click here for a gallery of more photos from Day 7.
Jasper Colt — This has been an unparalleled opportunity for me to begin learning the real story of slavery in American History. I have come away with a better understanding of how slavery came to be an American institution, how it transformed and how it has affected our national identity. As a student working to become a teacher, I now have a greater appreciation of the importance of teaching slavery accurately and creatively to better impart these understanding to my students.
Mark Lowrie — The journey over the past week has had so many highlights ranging from the uncovering of unknown histories to experiencing very emotional activities. The trip has undoubtedly made me a more knowledgeable teacher but also a better person. The advice I would share with my colleges for teaching the subject of slavery is to teach with as much truth and sensitivity as possible.
Jamie Hoopes — One highlight of the trip was learning the complete story of Frederick Douglass and his contributions. To go from slave to being a morale compass for the nation is an incredible achievement. Another was being with Professor Smith. I was part of his Civil War Institute and it was a life changing experience. I could follow him around day in day out. So that was a treat to spend two more hours with him. One piece of advice for my colleagues would be to use as many primary sources as are appropriate. Textbooks often leave out so much information that they are particularly valuable these days.
Shelly Westergard – The highlight of the journey for me was acknowledging the debt we all owe to those brave and insightful souls who lived, loved, fought, and died along the Chesapeake. I know so much more about Maryland and its significance thanks to this trip. I specially enjoyed the lecture on George Washington. As for the instructional advice I would give to colleagues, never underestimate the emotional power of artifacts and role-playing as a means to connect your students with their history.
Anna Green — I learned a great deal during this trip not only about the history of slavery but also about how to approach teaching it. I have gained a great deal of respect for history teachers by observing how much thought and planning goes into preparing lessons. For me, the highlight of the trip was hearing Dr. Rex Ellis speak, while we were in Williamsburg, VA. He is such an amazing speaker and teaches with such conviction. I feel honored to have been involved in this trip and to have gotten to know such an amazing group of talented and inspiring teachers.
Carrie Happoldt — So many of us learn so many different “versions” of what slavery meant to certain groups of people in school. For me, this trip was a wonderful opportunity to gain a better perspective and a more complete picture of what slavery did to people. One piece of advice I would give teachers is to rethink what you know about slavery. Primary documents and modern historians use of them, tell a much different story than the one we are use to hearing.
Karen Frison — The entire journey was an incredible experience which I will always treasure. It was eye-opening, inspiring, emotional, and joyous all at the same time. It is difficult to choose just one experience to label as the highlight of my journey but I especially enjoyed the tour of Cedar Hill, learning so much more of the history, along with little–known facts and anecdotes regarding Frederick Douglass, and the phenomenal recall and lecture of Professor Edward Smith. The advice I would give to my colleagues is to not be afraid to handle the topic of slavery, but to make sure you are well-prepared via research, to use primary sources effectively and as often as possible.
Monica Jett — I learned so much from this journey professionally. The highlight of the journey for me was to walk in Fredrick Douglass’s house. I felt so honored to be allowed to walk through and view some of his professional along with his personal belongings. One piece of advice that I would give my colleagues, is to keep your mind open to all possibilities and questions. If you are confident in yourself and your students, you will convey to them that slavery can be taught in a meaningful and tactful way that enthralls and engages all students regardless of their skin color.
Amy Roose — Thanks to all— this was indeed an incredible journey from a historical, educational and personal perspective. Educationally, I learned a great deal from the use of primary sources whether as explained by an educator (usage in the classroom) or from an author’s perspective (fleshing out a personal story). Historically, the connections of time and place were often chilling as the past seemed to talk to us in many forms reminding us of the historical richness of this Chesapeake region. Personally, learning from the diversity found within our group itself as we experience this outdoor classroom was priceless.
Samantha Blau — As Darryl would have us say, my “ah-ha” moment came on our second day in Williamsburg. As our docent was leading us from one exhibit to the next we had a short walk, along the way she began to lead us in a traditional call and response song. I began to wish that I could have that same freedom in the classroom, only to realize of course that I could. One of the things that I’ll be taking away from this experience is a new appreciation for what I can introduce and accomplish within the confines of a classroom. As the teacher I can introduce all kinds of material, and though my musical abilities are severely lacking I can still set and example and engage students by singing sometimes, rather than always relying on a video or CD to communicate my lessons. This realization of mine would also be the one slice of advice that I would offer my fellow student teachers as well as teachers of all degrees of experience.
Erick Brown — Let me say what a moving experience it was to see the places my ancestors lived, died, and (in some cases) overcame great obstacles to their prosperity and survival. I don’t ever want to forget the stock I come from. I constantly want to remind myself that I come from a people who labored in chains but strived for perfection in music, dance, art, and literature. I want to remind myself that Africans refused to die here. Despite what many of us would judge to be a hopeless condition, they lived! They dreamed! They fought back in whatever way they could! They passed on to their future generations a legacy of hope and faith in God! Most importantly, when freed from their bondage, they forgave! The entire experience was an epiphany. The heat of the slave cabins, the oppressively hot sun, the sticky feel of the tobacco, the sounds of voices singing songs of hope and despair, the percussive rhythms of African drums, the view from the third floor of Mount Vernon, the luxury of the Douglass house. All of these experiences serve to remind me that when I stand, I stand in the shadow of greatness! When I walk, I walk in the footsteps of giants! If I could send my ancestors a message through time, it would be this. “Your legacy lives on. We remember, and we are grateful”.
A Chesapeake Journey: From Slavery to Freedom